Rising over 9000 feet from the trailhead, The Kautz Glacier is a superb and aesthetic route up the middle of Mount Rainier’s massive South Face. Meadows of wildflowers, tumbling icefalls, and steep snow slopes lead to an exposed and spectacular high camp. The crux of the route involves 2000 feet of technical climbing up the infamous Kautz Ice Chute on summit day.

Baker Mountain Guides has extensive experience guiding clients to the summit of Mount Rainier. Our exclusive Kautz Glacier program is designed to be of the highest quality. Our clientele can expect excellent customer service, fellowship, and amenity from our personable guides.


Baker Mountain Guides offers a scheduled four-day ascent of the Kautz Glacier every other year.

  • Pre-Trip: Ashford

    We’ll rendezvous in Ashford the day before our ascent. Your guide will conduct a meet-and-greet and gear check, and supply guests with group equipment. We encourage our guests to join us for dinner and drinks.

  • Day 1: Approach

    After breakfast, we’ll travel to Paradise, WA. We’ll hike to Glacier Vista, descend to the Nisqually Glacier, and rope up. Our route crosses the glacier and climbs the Wilson Ice Fall. Camp will be on a bench around 9000 feet.

  • Day 2: Ascend to High Camp

    After breakfast, we’ll pack up camp and continue up the mountain towards the Turtle, a large snowfield between the Kautz and Wilson Glaciers. Steep climbing up the Turtle will bring us to our high camp around 11,000 feet.

  • Day 3: Summit Day

    We’ll leave camp shortly after midnight. We’ll descend a rock step to the Kautz Glacier and climb the technical ice chute. Above, we’ll follow the Nisqually Glacier to the summit. We’ll descend the route and rappel the ice chute back to camp.

  • Day 3: Descent

    After much needed rest, we’ll pack up camp and descend the Turtle to the Nisqually Glacier. A short climb will bring us back to Glacier Vista. Paradise is minutes away! From there, we head back to Ashford to celebrate!

Each Adventure is Unique

Featherweight Guarantee

Let’s face it: climbing and skiing are more fun without a massive pack. That’s why we strive to offer the lightest pack weight of any guide service. We plan meticulously, use quality equipment, and always share the load. Minimalism and teamwork are guiding values in our pursuit to craft authentic mountain adventures.

Program Information

  • Season
  • Mid-Summer

  • Duration
  • 4 Days

  • Max Ratio
  • 2 Clients to 1 Guide

  • Equipment

  • Schedule
  • 2022 Season

    • TBD

  • Cost
  • $2000.00


    Cost Includes

    • Tents
    • Stoves
    • Fuel
    • Breakfasts and Dinners